Over the sea to Skye

When o was young I remember my Mum singing me to sleep with "Speed Bonnie Boat like a bird on the wing, over the sea to Skye" for some reason that has stuck in my head and yet it wasn't until very recently that I actually visited the island. Today was the first visit by ferry. It's amazingly atmospheric, just half an hour on a little ship, but it makes a real journey.

Mallaig is an insignificant little harbour but  it is the gateway to Skye.

Unfortunately my phone was nearly flat so the photos I have of Mallaig and the crossing are on my camera, and not able to be published yet. The crossing was rough and windy, in spite of lots of notices asking drivers to disable their car alarms, the ferry had barely left the dockside before the first started, to be followed all the way across, by a sympathetic orchestra. Some drivers confessed their failure, others I'm sure, resolved to brave it out.

On Skye and battery topped up, this was the view back to the mainland.

Dark and brooding with a hint of blue sky.

Too much to take in.

My original plan included a circuit of Skye. The revised realistic one has a very short blustery stay. With a reluctant goodbye at Kyle of Lochalsh. While the bridge is convenient and stunning, somehow it's not the same as the ferry.

North now with the prospect of the highest pass in the UK over to Applecross.

I have ridden the pass before, both times in glorious summer sun. Today was windy and wet. On the whole the wind has not been a problem, but once or twice, in an exposed position, I have had to fight it, as a result I was a bit wary of the pass. It has narrow roads and tight bends. In the end it wasn't a problem. The awkward climb was for the most, sheltered from the Westerly wind, at the top it was blowing enough to keep most people in their cars, and there were a couple of exposed points on the way down, but nothing which caused a serious wobble. Interestingly I found two of the sharp uphill hairpins near the top more of a challenge this time than previously. I had not needed to stop for the bends on my BMW, on the Triph I had to put my feet down twice, both controlled and without problem, but somehow I wasn't able to drive through the bends as I should have. I have tried to work out why. It seems that there could be several explanations:

The weather

The fact that I am less experienced at riding the Triumph and don't have the same confidence with it as I had with the BMW

Something about the nature of the handling of the bikes

Or possibly a combination of all three.

No pictures of the ascent I'm afraid, too much concentration required, but the sun shone on top.

I am warm in my pod now. Sun is shining and tomorrow's route is planned.

Road to the Isles

 I started this while waiting for the ferry 

Then deleted it accidentally so this version is probably not so expansive.

Oban hostel was noisy and confirmed my growing view that I annoy a hostel person. Woken at 5am I was on the road by 7

With sunshine and showers I rode to Fort William where Morrisons provided a decent coffee.then the Road to the Isles including the bonnie Prince Charles monument 

At Glenfinnan.

Lots of stunning views again and not too much rain!

This is Ben Nevis as I left Fort William.

Arriving next Mallaig

First view of Skye.

 

Mull of Kintyre🎶🎶

Inveraray was overcast when I left. I had a room to myself at the hostel so no complaints 

A pleasant quiet ride alongside Loch Fyne and to Lochgilphead, where we spent s night several years ago in a motor home. I recall at that time we judged that the town was the most miserable and depressing that we visited. This morning there was little to change that assessment, although most places look better when it's not raining.

And also from a distance 

I spent most of today on The Kintyre peninsula. I looked for the Mull, but in the absence of guardsmen playing bagpipes and hippies playing keyboard badly, it was not easy to identify. I took this photo somewhere near

Then a few miles later I saw a sign to Mull of Kintyre lighthouse. It was downs rough road and 7 miles away, so I figured Paul and Linda were less important than reliably inflated tyres.

Tarbert is a splendid little port about halfway down the peninsular, with ferries to Arran. 

I had a coffe here then kept going South

Kintyre has links with so much romance it's almost palpable. On the way round you can see Arran, Islay and Jura, not to mention coming the closest ever to Northern Ireland.

Ferries are everywhere. Not the highly developed ports we are used to in the south, but little landing stages where vital links are maintained 

The peninsular itself has farming and forestry as its main industries. The scale of the forestry is truly staggering as this landscape shows.

The weather forecast had rain at 1pm. The locals said midday, in fact it came at about 2pm. After that pictures were impossible as I concentrated on keeping the bike on course. The scenic road from Lochgilphead to Obam is, I am sure, a delight. But I saw little of its delights. Just before the rain I spotted this monstrosity 

Overlooking this wonderful beach

Presumably it had been a hotel. It's certainly not used now, with boards at the windows, but no one has had the decency to pull it down.

Oban is currently cold and wet. I arrived, after riding three hours in the rain, to find a pleasant modernised hostel, with a drying room that requires you to go outdoors to put clothes in it. I'm sure someone thought that through!!!

Weather forecast for tomorrow: Rain.

Oh perfect

I am posting this earlier than usual today because I am unashamedly taking advantage of the free wifi at The Loch Fyne Oyster Bar http://www.lochfyne.com/restaurant-oyster-bar/

The real one, at the head of Loch Fyne, not the imitation you find in all the trendy eating areas of major towns.

And yes I have just had half a dozen exquisite oysters

Inveraray tonight's destination is labour 8 miles down the road, but I not sure what the Internet connection is like, so I am taking on some sun while writing this.

Is spoke to a couple of local bikers on the ferry across to Dunoon this morning. 

They told me a story about Loch Fyne Oyster Bar, which of course is famous for the part it played in ensuring that Tony Blair became Prime Minister in preference to Gordon Brown. Apparently Madonnas was playing a concert in Edinburg and wanted to eat at the famous oyster bar. Her people phoned to say she was on her way so could they stay open "no" came the curt reply. Bewildered the PA said "but it's Madonna and Guy Richie" . "We close at nine" came the reply.

All I can say is that Madonna missed a treat.

Since leaving Ayr today has been delightful, 

The lovely Inverlea guest house www.inverlea.co.uk was comfortable clean and welcoming. The ride up the coast to the ferry brought a new delight at each turn. Even the industrial landscape is gorgeous 

Hunterston Power station is behind the bike here.

So over the ferry to Dunoon and open roads. Very soon this was the view

Stunning or what??? Looking south from Tighnabruaich viewpoint to kyles of Bute. There was a woman there who had sailed to Vancouver Island in Canada, she swore this is a better view.

I could have stopped every few minutes to take anothe picture, but I will add just one more curiosity.

I was travelling along a narrow road where there had been forestry activity. On the left all the trees were felled. On the right they were standing, apart from the first row, that had been uprooted Nd fallen over

The roots were large but shallow, my working assumption is that the felling of the trees on the left had opened the others to wind, from which they had been protected, and that this blew over the first row.

Any better ideas please let me know.

One last picture, taken from the seat on which I have been writing this post. Bye for now.

Oh ok then just one more self satisfied selfie

Phew what a scorcher

The warmest day yet, sunshine most of the day and views that just got better and better,

Leaving Creetown I headed South for a bit towards the Isle of Whithorn then through the Mull of Galloway.beautiful rolling hills with clear indication from the type of trees that this is a moderate climate.

This part of Scotland is closer to Belfast than to Edindurgh. At one point I got a text indicating that I was connected to a foreign mobile service provider. Presumably one from the Irish Republic 

Ireland is clearly visible.

The port town of Stranraer has lost its car ferries to new facilities some 3 miles out of town on the north of the bay, presumably because this position provides better deep water docking. Past the ferry terminals the road North to Ayr is magnificent. A mini Sur if you like. Lovely views of the Itish hills. Then Ailsa Craig http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ailsa_Craig and Arran. 

Ayr has a solid refined feel to it. I have revised tomorrow's itinerary to include a ferry across the Clyde estuary so will have some time to explore Ayr before I leave

Today's route

http://www.mapmyride.com/view_workout?w=983484491

First two weeks data

I took this data from the bike this morning before I set off. 14 days of travelling:

2404 miles covered

57.1mpg

29.9 average mph

42.1 gallons of fuel used

81.56 hours riding

And still only 2 punctures👍👍

I did it Solway 🎶

Most of the day has been dominated by the Solway Firth, and what gracious domination.

First a little about the Youth Hostel at Cockermouth. I am beginning to think that the YHA should rebrand itself OFHA (Old Farts) I haven't seen a Young Person in any that I have stayed in, and last night was a memorable example. I have changed the names to protect the innocent but we have Mr and Mrs volunteer warden, who must be getting on for 70, he still cycles 10000 miles a year, which he took pleasure in explaining, isn't that far really, it's only 200 miles a week. Yes every week, come rain or shine, snow or hurricane. Then there is motormouth Bob, who is 70+ also a cyclist, and is prepared to tell anyone not sharp enough to get out of the room, all about his travels, his life as a policeman, his lovers and exploits Walter Mitty or not he can bore for not just England but The world. Then there was Gordon the C2C cyclist and Barry who I didn't find out much about because I was too busy ducking verbal broadsides from Bob. They were definitely late 50s so that puts the average age in the hostel last night at about 65. I think it's great.

This is the hostel, which used to be a water mill.

After Cockermouth I hit the sea again at Maryport, a delightful little Cumbrian fishing town

With a superb beach.

Just a little further North at Wigton was this tower that looks as if it's a watchtower. The wind was blowing hard all day, but was particularly strong along this exposed coast

The wind is clearly part of the landscape with trees growing to accommodate it's pressure

Holme Cultram Abbey was just one of the interesting old buildings I came across

A magnificent old church in a tiny village.

Later 

New Abbey in Dumfries, but first the border, 

This was taken by one of a lovy young couple who were riding their pedal cycles from Snowdpnia to Fort William. I took one of them and they returned the favour.

I don't think they were planning an event in Gretna Green, does anyone?

Onwards into Scotland. The weather was no better, but somehow being in Scptland makes it all brighter, the road was clear for miles, huge views south over the Solway were magnigicent. There is something special about looking at the satnav to see that the next turn is 15 miles away.

Spomehow I had made a mistake with my final destination. I had programmed TT to a back street in Newton Stewsrt, when I needed to be in Creetown. The two are not too far apart, but it added ten miles to my day.

Creetown is a bit run down. It has a granite mining history, but that is finished

 http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Creetown

  The hotel has the look of former glory, it's too big for the town. And I'm not sure how it's making money. The food is basic, beer fizzy and the crowd in the bar small. Like many rural areas it's struggling. Will the SNP make a difference?

Here is today's route 

http://www.mapmyride.com/view_workout?w=982309175